The rhythmic tap-tap-tap of bamboo on wood echoed around me as I lay back, mesmerized. Ink was being meticulously hammered into my skin, a process as old as time itself. Traditional Sape music filled the air, creating a trance-like atmosphere. Two Iban tattoo artists, their own bodies canvases of tribal art, knelt beside me, their focus absolute as they worked on my shoulder. Suddenly, Boy, one of the artists, exclaimed “Maa Guii!” and the tension broke, replaced by laughter.
This was my second attempt to experience a genuine Iban hand-tapped tattoo in Borneo, Malaysia. In a world where tattoo parlors are ubiquitous, offering machine-made designs, I sought something more profound – a connection to ancient traditions, a tattoo crafted by hand, by a true Iban tribesman. This journey led me deep into the heart of Borneo, to the land of headhunters and the enduring art of Traditional Hand Tattooing.
The Iban of Borneo: Guardians of Tradition and Tattoo Art
The Iban people, comprising nearly 30% of Sarawak’s population in Malaysian Borneo, are renowned for their rich cultural heritage. Historically known as the “Sea Dayaks” and once feared as headhunters, the Iban are now celebrated for their hospitality and vibrant traditions, including their iconic longhouses and intricate tattoo artistry.
While the practice of headhunting is now relegated to stories and jokes shared over Langkau (rice wine), the Iban spirit of strength and connection to their heritage remains strong. They are peaceful agriculturalists, cultivating rice and preserving their longhouse lifestyle and cultural practices, among which traditional tattooing holds a significant place.
The Living Stories Etched in Skin: Meaning of Iban Tattoos
Iban tattoos are far more than mere decoration; they are visual narratives, telling the story of an individual’s life journey. These tattoos serve as a powerful form of personal and cultural expression, marking milestones, achievements, and the wearer’s evolving identity. Historically, tattoos could signify knowledge acquired, honors earned, or even victories in headhunting. This art form is not exclusive to men; Iban women also proudly wear tattoos, each design carrying its own symbolism.
An Iban tattoo artist meticulously hand-tapping a traditional design.
The journey into Iban tattooing often begins early in life. Around the age of ten, Iban children traditionally receive their first tattoos – the Bungai Terung, or eggplant flower, placed on each shoulder. This design, a common sight throughout Sarawak, marks the wearer’s entry into the world of Iban identity and symbolism.
A close-up of the traditional hand-tapping tools used by Iban tattoo artists.
Following the Bungai Terung, traditionally, individuals would accumulate more tattoos throughout their lives, each marking significant events like successful hunts, fishing expeditions, acts of bravery, or the acquisition of new knowledge beneficial to the longhouse community. The bodies of Iban elders often bear a rich tapestry of these traditional tattoos, each telling a chapter of their life story and the history of their people.
The continuity of Iban tattooing faced a significant challenge with the arrival of Christian missionaries in the 1960s. Viewed as pagan symbols, these powerful tattoos were discouraged, leading to a decline in the practice. However, in recent times, there has been a resurgence of interest in Iban tattoos. Younger generations are reclaiming this cultural art form, often getting tattoos to celebrate achievements like graduation or international travel. Yet, many of these contemporary tattoos are executed in modern styles using machines, rather than the traditional hand-tapped method.
A collection of traditional Iban tattoo designs, showcasing the artistry and symbolism.
Interestingly, the evolving world sometimes finds its way into even traditional art. I was told fascinating stories of elders with airplane tattoos on their backs. For Iban hunters deep in the rainforest, the sudden appearance of an airplane high above was a miraculous, almost divine event, leading them to immortalize this modern marvel as a tattoo.
An Iban elder proudly displaying his traditional hand tattoos, a testament to a lifetime of experiences.
Boy Skrang: Keeping the Hand-Tapped Tradition Alive
My quest for a traditional Iban hand tattoo led me to Boy Skrang. I first met Boy in Kuching while planning a trip up the Skrang River to Entalau. Growing up in Entalau longhouse, Boy shared captivating stories of a childhood immersed in the rich biodiversity of Borneo’s rainforests, a time when orangutans, hornbills, and wild boars thrived.
Boy Skrang, a renowned Iban tattoo artist, in his element at Entalau.
Fascinated by the art form from a young age, Boy dedicated himself to mastering traditional Iban hand-tapped tattooing. Today, he co-owns Skrang Tattoo in Kuching, a studio that stands as a beacon for authentic Iban tattooing. Boy Skrang is celebrated for his expertise in this ancient technique, meticulously recreating the traditional methods passed down through generations.
Boy Skrang expertly applying a hand-tapped tattoo, preserving the Iban tradition.
Boy’s dedication to preserving Iban tattoo traditions has garnered international recognition. He was featured in an episode of the acclaimed TV series “Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown,” where he not only tattooed Anthony Bourdain using the hand-tapped method but also showcased elements of Iban culture, including what was humorously referred to as a “Langkau Dance.”
Boy Skrang with Anthony Bourdain, as featured in "Parts Unknown," highlighting Iban tattoo art.
Beyond his artistry, Boy is a close friend who has deeply enriched my understanding of Iban culture. A traditionalist at heart, he often reflects on the past while also being acutely aware of the challenges facing Borneo today – deforestation, cultural erosion, and the uncertain future of Sarawak.
Boy Skrang focused on his craft, tattooing Anthony Bourdain with traditional techniques.
Skrang Tattoo Studio: A Sanctuary for Traditional Iban Ink
Located on China Street in Kuching’s Chinatown, Skrang Tattoo studio, co-founded by Boy Skrang, offers a unique and culturally immersive tattoo experience. Their focus is firmly rooted in providing authentic, hand-tapped Iban tattoos, many designs exclusive to the Skrang region, carrying the legacy of generations.
The logo of Skrang Tattoo studio, representing their dedication to traditional Iban tattooing.
Alongside Boy, Skrang Tattoo is home to other talented artists, some of whom are also dedicated to learning and practicing the ancient art of traditional tattooing. The studio’s appeal lies not only in the high caliber of their artistry but also in their commitment to preserving and promoting the cultural significance of traditional methods.
Boy and Skrang Tattoo are true pioneers, bridging the ancient art of Iban tattooing with the contemporary tattoo world. Their dedication deserves recognition and support for their ingenuity and profound respect for cultural heritage.
The Skrang Tattoo Studio in Kuching, a hub for traditional Iban hand-tapped tattoos.
For those who might find the hand-tapped method too intense, Skrang Tattoo also offers machine tattoos, ensuring accessibility for all while maintaining their core dedication to Iban artistry. You can explore more of their work on their Facebook page.
Entalau and the Skrang River: Immersing in Iban Culture
To truly understand Iban tattoos, one must journey to the heartland of Iban culture: the Skrang River and Entalau. This region is home to traditional longhouses, some unchanged for decades, and even adorned with human skulls – relics of the headhunting past.
Before committing to my Iban tattoo, I felt a strong need to immerse myself in Iban culture. Living in a longhouse with Iban tribesmen along the Skrang River seemed the most authentic way to connect with the origins of this art form.
Traveling by boat to Entalau up the Skrang River, the heart of Iban culture in Borneo.
Boy arranged transportation from Kuching to Entalau, his home longhouse. The journey involved a four-hour bus ride followed by an enchanting four to five-hour boat trip upriver. This very longhouse was also featured in Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown” episode, showcasing Boy’s cultural heritage and tattooing skills.
Pepper drying at Entalau longhouse, showcasing the traditional lifestyle of the Iban people.
Entalau is home to Iban elders bearing traditional tattoos, some of whom lived during the era of headhunting. Conversations with these elders, hearing the stories behind their tattoos, provided an invaluable insight into the living history etched onto their skin. Like Boy, these elders are deeply aware of the cultural shifts and challenges facing their community.
An Iban man in Entalau proudly displaying his traditional hand tattoos, connecting to his heritage.
My time in the longhouse solidified my belief that experiencing Iban culture firsthand is essential before receiving an Iban tattoo. It provides a deeper understanding of why tattoos are so integral to Iban identity and way of life.
Receiving My Traditional Iban Tattoo: A Personal Rite of Passage
Returning to Kuching from the Skrang River, I was eager to get my Iban tattoo. After discussing designs with Boy, we decided on the Bungai Terung as a starting point.
*Bungai Terung – This significant tattoo is traditionally given to young Iban men as they transition into manhood, signifying responsibility and the leaving of their childhood longhouse. The black eggplant flower is placed on each shoulder, featuring a central squiggly circle symbolizing tadpole intestines, representing life and new beginnings. The eggplant flower’s petals embody the virtue of patience, a core Iban value, emphasizing that life’s lessons are learned through perseverance.
Boy Skrang preparing the traditional hand-tapping tools and ink for the tattoo process.
I agreed to the Bungai Terung and also inquired about a fishhook design I had seen on elders, tattooed above their ankles. Boy explained this was a fishing charm, believed to bring good luck in fishing. As an enthusiastic but often luckless fisherman, I decided to embrace this charm as well.
Traditional Iban tattoo tools, including bamboo sticks, a metal spike, and natural ink.
The tattooing process began with Boy preparing the traditional ink – made from soot and fermented sugar cane juice – in a bamboo cup. He then inserted a metal spike into a bamboo stick, testing the rhythm by gently tapping away from me. Meanwhile, I opted for a shot of Langkau to steel my nerves!
As I lay down, Leo, Boy’s apprentice, stretched the skin on my shoulder. Then began the hand-tapping – the metal spike rhythmically driven into my skin by the percussive strikes of two bamboo sticks.
The hand-tapping tattoo process in action, showcasing the traditional method.
A closer view of the hand-tapping technique, highlighting the precision and skill involved.
The inevitable question: Did it hurt? Yes, unequivocally. While the photos might show a smile, the pain was significant. However, the pain was a small price to pay for the profound experience of receiving a traditional Iban tattoo – a permanent mark of cultural immersion and personal significance.
Throughout the process, Boy would occasionally shout “Maa Guii!!” – a phrase whose exact meaning remains a delightful mystery, but it became our shared cry, punctuating the experience with humor and camaraderie, helping to manage the discomfort.
The author experiencing the hand-tapped tattoo process, a mix of pain and cultural immersion.
Four hours later, the Bungai Terung was complete. As I started to get up, Boy exclaimed, “Wait, you’re not finished!”
Boy Skrang preparing to tattoo the traditional fish hook design on the author's ankle.
Boy then turned his attention to my ankle, proceeding to tattoo the fishing charm. While I can’t claim to have instantly gained ancient fishing wisdom, the fish hook tattoo is a powerful and meaningful symbol.
The completed traditional Iban fish hook tattoo, a symbol of luck and connection to Iban culture.
This experience was undoubtedly one of my most incredible travel adventures. Deep gratitude to Boy Skrang for sharing his artistry and culture, allowing me to connect with the ancient tradition of Iban hand tattooing.
Close-up of the newly completed Bungai Terung hand-tapped tattoo on the author's shoulder.
The author proudly displaying his new traditional Iban hand tattoos – Bungai Terung and fish hook.
A final view of the author's Iban fish hook tattoo, a permanent reminder of a profound cultural experience.
Witness the Process: My Iban Tattoo Video
A still from the video documenting the author's traditional Iban hand tattoo experience.
Essential Information for Your Iban Tattoo Journey
Location: Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia. A region rich in culture and natural beauty.
Flights: Plan your trip to Sarawak. Consider using flight comparison websites like Momondo to find the best deals.
Useful Tip: Embrace the experience! Focus on the cultural significance and the incredible story you’ll carry on your skin, rather than dwelling on the temporary pain.
Skrang Tattoo: Connect with Skrang Tattoo via their Facebook Page to inquire about traditional hand-tapped tattoos and appointments.
Skrang River Tours: For an immersive cultural experience in Entalau and the Skrang region, contact Boy Skrang directly to discuss tour arrangements.
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