Even when tattoos began gaining mainstream popularity, they carried an air of rebellion, especially for women. As Margot Mifflin aptly put it in Bodies of Subversion: a secret history of women and tattoos, “Tattoos appeal to contemporary women both as emblems of empowerment in an era of feminist gains and as badges of self-determination at a time when controversies about abortion rights, date rape, and sexual harassment have made them think hard about who controls their bodies – and why.” This quote resonates even more powerfully when we delve into the history of Tattooed Women.
However, the story of tattooed women is far from a modern trend. In 1879 New York, a newspaper article titled ‘The Tattoo Trick’ in The National Police Gazette revealed a fascinating glimpse into the past. It featured an interview with a female tattooist operating discreetly, noting that her clientele was primarily women and business was thriving. This historical snippet underscores that the allure and practice of tattooing among women has deep roots.
These historical accounts and vintage photographs of tattooed women are captivating. Each sepia-toned image sparks curiosity: Who were these women? What drew them to tattoos? What societal prejudices did they navigate? To truly appreciate the journey of tattooed women, let’s explore the stories of some remarkable figures who paved the way. These are the icons, the tattooed women of the past, whose courage and artistry have shaped the vibrant community of female tattoo artists and enthusiasts we see today. Many of these pioneers began their inked journeys in the early 20th century, a time when women faced significant limitations in their rights and societal expectations. Imagine the boldness it took for them to embrace tattooing, both adorning their own skin and inking others – this is truly tattoo herstory.
Maud Wagner: Circus Performer Turned Tattoo Pioneer
Maud Wagner, one of the earliest known female tattoo artists, showcasing her tattoos.
Maud Wagner’s path to becoming a tattooed woman and artist was unique. Initially an aerialist and contortionist in the circus, her life took a turn in 1904 when she met tattooist Gus Wagner. Their courtship had an unconventional condition: Maud agreed to a date only if Gus would teach her the art of tattooing. Marrying in 1907, Maud became proficient in the traditional “stick and poke” method and extensively tattooed herself, becoming one of the earliest known female tattoo artists in the United States. Her story embodies the spirit of early tattooed women who carved their own paths.
Jessie Knight: Breaking Barriers as the UK’s First Female Tattooist
Jessie Knight, considered the UK's first professional female tattoo artist, pictured in her shop.
Jessie Knight is celebrated as the UK’s first professional female tattooist. Starting her career in 1921 at the young age of 17, Jessie inherited her skills from her sailor father, also a tattoo artist. When he was at sea, she confidently managed his tattoo shop in Barry, South Wales. Facing societal stigma as a tattooed woman and female tattoo artist in a male-dominated field, Jessie adopted a formal appearance, always impeccably dressed in a suit and with styled hair. Despite the prejudice, which she alluded to in her diary poems, Jessie persevered, tattooing well into the 1980s and managing multiple shops throughout her long and impactful career. Her resilience is a testament to the strength of tattooed women pioneers.
Artoria Gibbons: The Tattooed Lady and Living Canvas
Artoria Gibbons, a famous tattooed lady performer, showcasing her full-body religious art tattoos.
Artoria Gibbons, known as “The Tattooed Lady,” navigated the performance world with her full-body tattoos. Her stage persona often included a fabricated backstory of being tattooed against her will by a jealous husband. The reality was a collaborative venture with her husband, Charles “Red” Gibbons, a well-known tattoo artist. Together, they recognized the potential of her becoming a performing tattooed woman. Charles tattooed Artoria extensively in vibrant colors, covering her body with images inspired by her favorite religious art, including masterpieces like Botticelli’s The Annunciation and Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo. From the 1920s until her retirement in 1981, Artoria captivated audiences, embodying the spectacle and artistry associated with tattooed women in performance.
Mildred Hull: New York’s Pioneering Female Tattooist
Mildred "Millie" Hull, one of the first women to become a tattoo artist independently, without male mentorship.
Mildred “Millie” Hull, born in 1897 and a former burlesque dancer, stands out as one of the first tattooed women to become a tattoo artist without learning from a male partner or relative. She independently entered the profession and tattooed numerous clients, many of whom were women requesting sentimental designs like hearts with lovers’ names and “mother” tattoos. In 1943, she was recognized as New York City’s only female tattooist, operating in a city where tattooing was actually illegal until 1997. In a Foto Magazine interview, Millie noted a perceived preference among male clients for female tattoo artists, believing women to be more careful. Despite her professional success, Millie’s life tragically ended in 1947. Her legacy remains as a testament to the independent spirit of early tattooed women in tattooing.
A sheet of tattoo flash art attributed to Millie Hull, showcasing classic tattoo designs popular with her clientele.
Valie Export: Tattoo as Feminist Statement
Valie Export, performance artist, using a tattoo to make a powerful feminist statement in 1970.
Valie Export, an Austrian performance artist, used her body as a canvas for feminist expression. In a 1970 public performance in Frankfurt, she tattooed a suspender belt design on her thigh. This act was a powerful commentary on the sexual objectification of women. Valie viewed tattooing as a ritualistic act connecting to civilization, stating, “In the tattoo the garter appears as a sign of a past enslavement, clothing as the suppression of sexuality, the garter as an attribute of a femininity not determined by ourselves.” Her work highlights how tattooed women have used ink to challenge societal norms and make bold feminist statements.
Close-up of Valie Export's suspender belt tattoo, a symbol of feminist art and body politics.
Jacci Gresham: Breaking Racial Barriers in Tattooing
Jacci Gresham, considered the first Black female tattoo artist in the USA, still tattooing in her 70s.
Jacci Gresham is a true icon and considered the USA’s first Black female tattoo artist. Learning to tattoo in 1972, Jacci not only broke into a male-dominated industry but also confronted racial barriers in an overwhelmingly white space. Her shop, Aart Accent Tattoos in New Orleans, holds the distinction of being the first tattoo shop opened by a Black woman in the United States. Still working in her 70s, Jacci’s enduring career and her shop’s empowering slogan, “Look better naked – get a tattoo,” inspire countless individuals. Jacci Gresham’s story is vital in recognizing the diverse narratives within the history of tattooed women.
Isobel Varley: The World’s Most Tattooed Senior Citizen
Isobel Varley, known as the world's most tattooed female pensioner, showcasing her extensive body suit.
Isobel Varley, crowned the world’s most tattooed female pensioner, began her tattoo journey later in life. At 49, in 1986, she got her first tattoo—a small bird—and described it as an instant “addiction.” This initial foray led to over 200 tattoos in a decade, covering 93% of her body. Isobel held the Guinness World Record for being the most tattooed female senior citizen. Her favorite design was a family of tigers on her stomach. She passed away in 2015 at 77, leaving behind a legacy as a tattooed woman who embraced body modification later in life and to its fullest extent.
These tattooed women represent just a fraction of the countless individuals who have contributed to the rich tapestry of tattoo history. Their stories of artistry, rebellion, and self-expression continue to inspire and empower tattooed women today. They remind us that tattoos are not just skin deep; they are powerful statements of identity, agency, and enduring legacies etched in ink.
