Yunnan, my beloved Chinese province, consistently amazes with its diverse landscapes and rich tapestry of cultures. Each visit unveils new wonders, and on this journey, I ventured into one of its most remote corners: the Dulong Valley. Nestled within the Gaoligongshan National Park, a biodiversity hotspot of global significance, lies a land as captivating for its natural beauty as for its unique inhabitants – the Dulong people.
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
The Dulong ethnic group, one of China’s smallest and least understood, numbers fewer than 10,000. What sets them apart is the extraordinary, now-forbidden tradition of face tattoos for young women. Only a precious few of these women remain, living embodiments of a practice that is slowly fading into history. The privilege of meeting them and hearing their stories firsthand was an experience beyond words, reminiscent of my earlier encounters with the last women of foot binding tradition in Yunnan.
Encounters with the Last Dulong Women Bearing Face Tattoos
As I approached the first village in the soft morning light, a sense of surreal anticipation washed over me. Having seen photographs and documentaries of these remarkable women, the reality of meeting them felt both profound and delicate.
Jiang Linqing 江林凊
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
My first encounter was with Jiang Linqing (born in 1942). I found her outside her newly built home, part of the government’s poverty alleviation program in the Dulong Valley. A small group of Chinese tourists were already present, their cameras capturing her image. Linqing sat quietly on a small couch, portraits of herself adorning the wall behind her.
Dulongjiang village closeup
She seemed reserved, perhaps weary of the constant attention. It struck me then, the weight of being a living relic, her body bearing a tradition that drew curiosity, sometimes devoid of genuine empathy. Waiting patiently for the small crowd to disperse, I approached her respectfully, requesting permission to take her photograph. A nod of assent was her reply. Offering a small token of appreciation, a customary gesture when photographing individuals in remote Chinese communities, I sought to engage in conversation through a local interpreter. However, Linqing was not inclined to talk much. Whether it was her nature or simply her mood, I felt grateful for the brief moment of connection. After a few photographs, I bid her farewell, carrying with me a sense of quiet reflection.
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
Li Wenshi 李文仕
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
My next encounter was with Li Wenshi (born 1947), a figure almost akin to a celebrity within the Dulong Valley. Her warmth was immediately apparent. She was fascinated by my foreign appearance, remarking on my height and pale skin – a stark contrast to the tanned skin associated with outdoor labor in China, and historically, with lower social status. The irony of Western tanning trends seemed to amuse her.
xi dulong 360
With her daughter translating, I posed questions that had lingered in my mind for a long time. “I was 13 when I got tattooed. It was incredibly painful, like burning, and my face was swollen for days!” Wenshi recounted, a smile gracing her lips. Her curiosity about me seemed to outweigh her interest in reminiscing about her life. Given the numerous pictures of her online, she has likely met many outsiders. However, the recent COVID-19 closures meant I was probably the first foreign visitor she had encountered in quite some time.
These women are curiously designated as “living fossils” by local authorities, their health closely monitored. “I once traveled to Kunming!” she exclaimed, referring to Yunnan’s capital, “and even to Beijing to meet Xi Jinping!” It was striking to imagine her journey from a secluded valley to bustling metropolises. When asked if she enjoyed Kunming, she replied with a smile, “Yes, but I love my village more.”
fabio nodari with Dulong woman
During our conversation, her husband returned from his work in the fields, seemingly unfazed by the attention his wife garnered. “Everyone in the village teases him,” Wenshi’s daughter chuckled, “because of his prominent nose. They joke that he looks like a foreigner!” Laughter filled the air. After more photographs, I thanked Wenshi and departed, heading towards my final encounter.
Lian Zixian 莲自仙
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
My guide spotted Lian Zixian (born in 1943) doing laundry. She spoke no Mandarin, unlike the other women. A local boy was enlisted to translate. Zixian received her tattoos at the age of 23, relatively late compared to others. Despite the language barrier, her warmth and openness shone through.
fabio nodari with Dulong woman
Finding Dulong language speakers is becoming increasingly rare, a poignant reminder of the cultural erosion occurring even in this isolated valley. It’s a global phenomenon, echoing the decline of local dialects even in my own hometown in Italy. Despite the brevity of our meeting, Zixian’s welcoming spirit left a lasting impression. Reluctantly, it was time to leave this remarkable place and its equally remarkable people.
The Enigma of Dulong Face Tattoo Origins
The precise origins of the Dulong face tattoo tradition remain debated among anthropologists. The most prevalent theory suggests it arose as a protective measure. Young Dulong girls were tattooed to deter kidnappings by rival tribes, possibly Tibetan or Lisu raiders, who sought to enslave or forcibly marry them. The tattoos served as an indelible mark, diminishing their desirability outside their community and ensuring their return if abducted. While some romanticize the tattoos as artistic representations of butterflies, scholarly consensus refutes this interpretation. For deeper insights, the research paper on Dulong tattooed women offers valuable academic perspective.
Journeying to Dulongjiang 独龙江乡
Dulongjiang village
Dulongjiang village is the central point for accommodation and serves as a base for exploring the villages where the tattooed women reside. Dulongjiang Hotel on Trip.com is currently the main booking option.
Reaching Dulongjiang is an adventure in itself, typically requiring a hired local driver unless you are comfortable navigating challenging mountain roads. The journey can commence from Dali 大理 or Baoshan 保山, both accessible by high-speed train from Kunming.
My route began in Kunming, proceeding to Baoshan, and then to Liuku 六库, a picturesque town along the Nujiang River. Buses readily connect Baoshan and Liuku. From Liuku, a driver can be hired for the onward journey to Dulongjiang, passing through Fugong 福贡 and Gongshan 贡山. The 6-hour drive from Liuku to Gongshan, tracing the Nujiang River, is breathtaking, showcasing the immense scale of the valley.
An overnight stay in Gongshan (Vienna Hotel recommended on Trip.com) is advisable to break up the long travel day. The final two-hour leg to Dulong Valley is even more scenic, leading you deeper into this remote region, following the Dulong River parallel to the Nujiang.
dulongjiang river
Budget approximately 800RMB per day for a driver, excluding their meals and lodging. A three-day trip is recommended: one day for arrival, one for village exploration, and one for the return to Baoshan or Dali. Prior to 2000, Dulong was exceptionally isolated, requiring days to reach. Improved road access, including a new tunnel, has significantly shortened travel times.
Ideal Timing for a Dulong Valley Visit
Dulongjiang village
Careful trip planning is crucial. The road from Gongshan to Dulong Valley is prone to closures due to construction, landslides, and heavy snow. Avoid winter and the rainy season (May to August). April and September are optimal, with April offering clearer river waters before the rains begin.
Securing a driver familiar with the Dulong Valley is essential for locating the tattooed women. Access to the valley is limited to approximately 200 visitors daily, requiring advance registration, often facilitated by your driver. Currently, there is no entrance fee, possibly a temporary measure post-COVID-19 reopening to encourage tourism.
Essential Tips for Finding Dulong Tattooed Women
Dulongjiang village aerial
During my visit, I learned that only about 12 tattooed women remained in the villages around Dulong. I located three, including Li Wenshi, the most well-known. At the time, one resided in Longyuan Village 龙元村 and three in Xiongdang Village 雄当村, both near Dulongjiang Village. Finding the remaining women may require more time and local knowledge. Given their advanced age and potential relocation, relying on your driver for the most current information is paramount.
Dulongjiang forest
Dulongjiang forest sunrise
It is possible to travel all the way to Dulong and miss meeting these women if they are away or unavailable. On my return journey, I encountered tourists who had this very experience. My successful encounters, despite limited prior information, felt incredibly fortunate. Sometimes, luck plays an undeniable role in travel.
Final Reflections
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
Dulong woman with tattoos on her face
fabio nodari with Dulong woman
fabio nodari with Dulong woman
fabio nodari with Dulong woman
Meeting these Dulong women was a profound privilege, a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. Hearing their stories firsthand offered an invaluable glimpse into a vanishing cultural practice. Experiences like these reaffirm why Yunnan, and China as a whole, holds such an enduring allure for me. Exploring its remote corners, despite the challenges of language barriers and logistical hurdles, is immensely rewarding. While navigating transportation, communication, and occasional restrictions on foreign visitors can be complex, venturing off the beaten path in China unveils unparalleled hospitality, breathtaking landscapes, and deeply enriching cultural encounters. These are the experiences that leave an indelible mark, cherished memories far beyond the ordinary tourist trail.
For those planning a trip to China, a VPN is highly recommended. Consider an eSim for connectivity. Explore my China travel guide and information on visiting Tibet. You might also find my guides to Yubeng near Shangri-La and Western Sichuan helpful for further exploration.
