Even in recent times, choosing to get inked has often been perceived as a rebellious act, especially for women. As Margot Mifflin aptly states in Bodies of Subversion: a secret history of women and tattoos, tattoos for contemporary women are powerful symbols of empowerment and self-determination, particularly in the context of ongoing discussions about bodily autonomy and women’s rights.
However, the narrative of women and tattoos is far from a modern phenomenon. In 1879 New York, a National Police Gazette article titled ‘The Tattoo Trick’ highlighted a thriving female tattooist operating discreetly. This unnamed artist revealed a flourishing business catering primarily to women clients, indicating a long-standing history of women embracing tattoos.
These glimpses into the past of tattooed women are captivating. Old photographs, faded sepia-toned images of women adorned with ink, spark curiosity. Who were these women? What drew them to tattoos? What societal challenges did they encounter?
To truly understand the legacy of tattooed women, let’s delve into the stories of some iconic figures. These women, both tattoo artists and enthusiasts, paved the way for the vibrant and empowering tattoo culture women enjoy today. Their journeys, particularly those beginning in the early 1900s when women faced significant social and political limitations, are testaments to their courage and self-expression. In a time when women were largely confined to domestic roles, the act of tattooing, both receiving and giving, was a powerful act of “tattoo herstory.”
Maud Wagner: The Circus Performer Turned Tattoo Pioneer
Maud Wagner’s journey into tattooing began in the world of circus performance. An accomplished aerialist and contortionist, she encountered tattooist Gus Wagner in 1904. Their meeting led to a unique bargain: a date in exchange for tattoo lessons. Marrying Gus, she embraced tattooing fully, becoming proficient in the traditional stick and poke method by 1907. Maud herself became extensively tattooed, embodying the art form she practiced and contributing significantly to the early history of women in tattooing.
Jessie Knight: Britain’s Trailblazing Female Tattoo Artist
Jessie Knight holds the distinction of being considered the UK’s first professional female tattooist. Starting her career in 1921 at the young age of 17, Jessie learned the craft from her sailor and tattooist father. When he was at sea, she confidently took charge of his tattoo shop in Barry, South Wales. Facing societal prejudice as a woman in a male-dominated profession, Jessie adopted a formal approach, wearing suits and maintaining impeccable grooming. Despite facing stigma, even being called names, Jessie persevered, tattooing well into the 1980s and managing multiple studios throughout her career, leaving a lasting mark on the British tattoo scene.
Artoria Gibbons: The Tattooed Lady and Religious Art Icon
Artoria Gibbons, known as the “tattooed lady,” crafted a captivating stage persona. Promoters often spun tales of a jealous husband tattooing her to deter other admirers. The reality was a collaborative creation with her husband, Charles “Red” Gibbons, a renowned tattoo artist. Together, they recognized the performance potential of Artoria’s tattoos. Charles adorned her body with vibrant, full-color depictions of her beloved religious art, including masterpieces like Botticelli’s The Annunciation and Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo. Artoria performed for decades starting in the 1920s, captivating audiences until her retirement in 1981, blending art, performance, and tattoos in a unique career.
Mildred Hull: New York’s Independent Female Tattooist
Mildred “Millie” Hull, born in 1897 and a former burlesque dancer, stands out as one of the earliest women to independently master tattooing, without relying on a male partner for training. She catered to a diverse clientele, notably tattooing many women with popular designs like hearts enclosing lovers’ names and “mother” tributes. In 1943, she was recognized as New York City’s only female tattooist, operating in a city where tattooing was actually illegal until 1997. In an interview with Foto Magazine, Millie offered an insightful perspective: “I think men rather like having a woman tattoo them. They think a woman is likely to be more careful.” Sadly, Mildred’s life ended tragically in 1947.
Valie Export: Tattoo as Performance Art and Feminist Statement
Valie Export, an artist, used her body as a canvas for powerful social commentary. In a 1970 public performance in Frankfurt, she tattooed a suspender belt design onto her thigh. This act was a deliberate statement highlighting the objectification of women. Export articulated her intent, explaining, “Tattooing the body demonstrates the connection between ritual and civilization. In the tattoo the garter appears as a sign of a past enslavement, clothing as the suppression of sexuality, the garter as an attribute of a femininity not determined by ourselves.” Her work merged body art, feminism, and performance, using tattoos to challenge societal norms.
Jacci Gresham: Breaking Barriers as the First Black Female Tattoo Artist in the USA
Jacci Gresham is a true icon, recognized as the first Black female tattoo artist in the United States. Learning to use a tattoo machine in 1972, she bravely entered not only a male-dominated industry but also one overwhelmingly white. Her New Orleans shop, Aart Accent Tattoos, holds historical significance as the first tattoo studio opened by a Black woman in the US. Even in her 70s, Jacci continues to practice her art, embodying the spirit of her shop’s empowering slogan: “Look better naked – get a tattoo.”
Isobel Varley: From One Bird to World Record Holder
Isobel Varley’s tattoo journey began modestly. “Originally, I was only ever going to have one – a small bird – but I fell in love with it, and developed an addiction,” she confessed upon being named the world’s most tattooed female pensioner. This “addiction” transformed the former secretary into a Guinness World Record holder for the most tattooed senior citizen, with 93% of her body covered in ink. Starting at age 49 in 1986, Isobel amassed over 200 tattoos in a decade, her favorite being a family of tigers on her stomach. She passed away in 2015 at 77, leaving behind a legacy of embracing body modification and challenging age-related stereotypes.
These women, through their ink and actions, have collectively woven a rich “tattoo herstory.” Their stories highlight the enduring power of tattoos as a form of self-expression, empowerment, and rebellion for women across generations. From circus stages to art performances, and tattoo studios, these pioneers defied societal expectations and claimed their space in the world of tattoos, leaving an indelible mark for women and tattoo enthusiasts alike.
